![]() ![]() ![]() And I can now see why so many fragments representing it are present in museum collections. As you can see, I’ve started with a very simple pattern: I’m having fun with my new frame, and playing with the mesh background voided style. Zooomr : blackwork, counted thread, drawn thread, embroidery, pulled threadįlickr : blackwork, counted thread, drawn thread, embroidery, pulled thread Technorati : blackwork, counted thread, drawn thread, embroidery, pulled threadĭel. : blackwork, counted thread, drawn thread, embroidery, pulled thread It’s tough to NOT distort the threads when stitching, which may be optimal for the pulled thread mesh, but is problematic for the other styles. I will say that this gauzy linen is far better for the mesh darning and possibly solid voided work than it is for delicate double running. The drawing however is clearly intended to be geometrical, and as you can see – translates easily to linear counted stitching. It’s adapted from a drawn (rather than graphed) strip pattern appearing in Egenolff. Today’s double running band is yet another pattern that will be appearing in TNCM2. This photo is back-illuminated by the sun, and was taken with a piece of printer paper held behind the stitching: Here’s a close-up for Kathryn, who wanted to see the mesh more clearly. ![]() There look to have been several ways to do it – there is no “This is the only right way” method. Also, there will be more on how these mesh styles were achieved in historical works. I’m still working on the illustrations for the best of them, more on that to come. The thickness of the darning on the mesh varies because I was trying out several stitching logics. You can see that I finished the mesh strip and have started on a simple double running band. ![]() Zooomr : blackwork, counted thread, embroideryįlickr : blackwork, counted thread, embroidery Technorati : blackwork, counted thread, embroideryĭel. : blackwork, counted thread, embroidery And the small eye retains the single strand, reducing the time and annoyance of re-threading mid-work. They slide nicely between the threads of my ground cloth. The points are not quite as blunt as tapestry needles, but they are far less pointy than embroidery or plain-sewing sharps. You can see in the un-thumbnailed photo above that the eyes are tiny – just big enough for one strand of floss. But over the weekend I found these:īall point hand sewing needles, made for use on tricots and fine knit fabrics. One strand of floss has the annoying habit of falling out of the needle’s eye, something that drives me batty. But I often stitch those finer cloths with one strand of embroidery floss. I usually use fine tapestry style needles on ground cloth that’s 40+ threads per inch. I also made a blindingly obvious discovery about needles. Since nonmagnetic/non-conductive isn’t important for stitching, the least expensive pairs work just fine for my purposes. Electronics tweezers are available in many price ranges. Then the fine grip tweezers can be use to remove any thread detritus left over from ripping back. On mine the 90-degree sides of the D are just sharp enough to cut through thread, so inserting the rounded end into a stitch and pushing ever so slightly will break the stitch without harming the ground cloth. Further up the shaft the profile switches to more of a D. The final half inch or so is nicely rounded, and is a good stand-in for a laying tool (for those who like the economy of a minimal tool set). Electronics tweezers are long and pointy, with precision grip ends. They were so perfect, I went out and bought myself something similar. I saw some specifically made for electronics assembly at work. In addition to the standards, I can offer up this: I’ve been having a lively discussion in another forum on useful needlework tools. Some museums call this “Punto Spina Pesce.” Modern stitchers probably know it better under the name Montenegrin stitch. That one will probably be in long armed cross stitch, worked both horizontal or vertical, and on the diagonal to create the foreground. My working thread is marking the center point for the next band. Plus, being a new gizmo, I wanted to see how full slack, restacking the bars and tightening worked. Due to the orientation of my chair and frame stand, I’m most comfortable stitching in the lower third of the available area. As you can see, I advanced the piece on my rollers. ![]()
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